THE huge steel cranes rise out of the shoreline as we approach Greenock. Metal monoliths that speak of a bygone era of shipbuilding and heavy industry.

Our journey has taken us from central Scotland in a gathering storm towards our destination in Argyll, which lies across the fast-moving waters of the Firth of Clyde. The battleship-grey clouds overhead only add to the echoes of this area’s naval and manufacturing heritage.

We make our way along the shoreline to Gourock and McInroy's Point, a small spit of rock from where we can board the ferry to the outskirts of Dunoon, on the Cowal peninsula.

It is late afternoon but already the winter darkness is closing in as we arrive at the ferry concourse. Our car is swiftly guided over the metal ramp on to the waiting boat.

The ferry crew waste no time in pushing off from the pier and pretty soon we are rocking methodically across the firth. I step out of the car, which is jammed in tightly among the other passenger vehicles, and lift my toddler out of her seat. We make our way to the railing along the starboard side of the deck. Looking back on Gourock, we can see the storm has taken hold and huge, black columns of rain are descending from above. The swell below our feet is reacting accordingly and the ferry is tossed this way and that, sending spray across the car deck, where most of the passengers have remained firmly inside their vehicles.

Mercifully, the storm hasn’t caught up with us as we reach Argyll where, even in the gloom, we can see that the post-industrial feel of Inverclyde has given way to tourism, lights from seaside hotels burning invitingly in the darkness.

The ferry has deposited us a short drive from Hunter’s Quay Holiday Village, where our party of six, plus toddler, will be spending the weekend in a plush lodge – with a hot tub, no less.

We are determined not to fall for what must surely have been 2016’s most over-hyped fad – hygge, that Danish concept of cosiness which has taken over everything from open fires to woolly jumpers. However, with the rain beginning to lash our lodge, we are more than happy to partake in our own Scottish version. So, in short order we don our (Aran) wool sweaters, crank the heating system up to max, gorge ourselves on the amazing hamper of local food provided by the park, add some music to the lodge’s sound system and open a local craft beer or two for good measure.

Next morning we wake up a little worse for wear but are relieved to see the storm has passed. Standing on the deck, the beautifully calm waters of the Holy Loch stretch out in front of us, giving way to the rolling Argyll mountains. It is a stunning sight.

The holiday park offers numerous family-friendly activities, everything from a leisure complex with a pool, steam room and sauna to indoor karting and archery. Given the overindulgence of the night before, I am less than enthused but with a toddler in tow indulging a hangover isn’t really an option.

It’s a good thing, too, because our archery session with one of the park’s staff turns out to be the highlight of the trip. Our instructor, Steffan, is the type of guy you seldom have the good fortune to meet. His boundless enthusiasm and endless chat are simultaneously infectious and endearing. We end up spending a good two hours in his company, including a bizarre moment when Steffan has somehow managed to persuade three grown, slightly hungover men into donning hard-hats and racing around a sports hall on miniature go-karts – all while a couple of elderly ladies, drinks in hand, stare open-mouthed at the proceedings. To suggest it was like a scene from a bad sitcom would be to underplay the farcical nature of it – but we loved every second of it.

While the boys were off racing about a sports hall, my wife was taking our toddler for a swim. The toddler was in her element, thanks in no small part to the friendly staff.

Back at the lodge we pick up right where we left off: food, friends and fizz – it’s a heady mixture, made even better by the remnants of the luxury food hamper. The rain is back too so unfortunately we don’t get much chance to explore the surrounding area. It’s a real shame because it is one of the most scenic places in Scotland. In truth, we only really scratch surface of this park and the area in general, but perhaps that is a blessing in disguise as it gives us the perfect excuse to come back next year.

Thomas Hawkins was a guest of Argyll Holidays at Hunter's Quay Holiday Village. There are a variety of hampers, with local meats, cheeses, biscuits and desserts, priced from £75-£180. Visit argyllholidays.com