Wildflower meadows are sources of limitless fascination as they change and evolve throughout the year, and can be as big as an orchard or a part of the lawn.

For most of the year, a meadow can be left to its own devices, but it will need some maintenance to prevent it becoming a jungle of docks, nettles and tall, straggly grass. For the best results, apply some TLC over the next few weeks for best results.

Start by cutting back this year’s growth. I’m always itching to get going and clear away the dense, unsightly mess my once-beautiful meadow has become. A lawnmower won’t be up to the task, so a strimmer is the tool to use.

A thriving meadow must be low in nutrients, so you need to rake up all the vegetation or collect it with a lawnmower. This stops the cuttings rotting down and enriching the soil and so prevents thuggish weeds from quickly taking over.

When composting all this dead vegetation, the big challenge is killing off all the grass seeds. Studies have shown that this is achieved when a heap is at 55C for three days – an almost impossible target for most domestic composters.

But research has also shown that many seeds in a moist compost bin are killed when the temperature is maintained at 35C for 10 days. So, keep dry grass and weed stalks damp by adding sappy material such as green grass mowings, or water it, then cover the compost bin to prevent new seeds from blowing in. For best results, fill the heap in a oner and turn regularly to prevent pockets of dry material.

Remove this year’s growth once the plants have all set seed. Some of the more vigorous perennials will reliably stand up to competition from grasses. Red campion (Silene dioica) sets seed throughout the year, so can be cut back at any time, as can ox-eye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare). Pretty as they are, these large daisies can spread too successfully.

Herb bennet (Geum urbanum) flowers over a long period so is a reliable seeder, and tufted vetch (Vicia cracca) should have set seed by now. Other species, such as meadow buttercup (Ranunculus acris), birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) and cow parsley, Anthriscus sylvestris, will all have shed by now.

Wait till the seeds of meadow cranesbill (Geranium pratense) have turned brown before cutting. And knapweed (Centaurea Nigeria) keeps flowering throughout August. You can safely cut it once the early flowers have gone over.

Undoubtedly, though, grasses are the dominant players in a meadow. Although knapweed, red campion and other toughies can hold their own against grass, some of my favourites are much less sturdy. Beauties like the Scottish bluebell (Campanula rotundifolia), devil's-bit scabious (Succisa pratensis), greater stitchwort (Stellaria holostea) and cowslip, Primula veris, lose out in their battle for water and nutrients.

To give less robust wild flowers a chance, grasses need to be controlled by something other than a lawnmower. Introduce yellow rattle (Rhinanthus minor) to the meadow. An attractive yellow flower with pairs of corrugated and toothed leaves, it’s a welcome addition to the display.

Yellow rattle is also known as the "meadow maker" because of its underground activities. As the roots grow, they seek out and tightly clench grass roots, and penetrate each of the roots. These semi-parasitic plants then draw water and nutrients from their hosts so much so that the grass is suppressed by up to 60 per cent. The more yellow rattle, the greater the diversity of plant species.

This predation creates space in the meadow for other plants to grow. So, when clearing away the strimmings, remove dead thatch and expose some bare soil. Buy fresh yellow rattle seed from a reputable supplier and scatter it in bare patches. Simply walk over the soil to press the seed in to the soil and plants will take off in the spring.